WHATS NEW!

I talked to Paul Claus yesterday. The word is that Gunnar Naslund has not been climbed anywhere on the north side. I think we should definitely explore this peak; it may go or not, but it's worth a look. Apparently a S. rib of Bear has been climbed, but I'm not sure if the 12770 peaks were bypassed or not. It's supposed to be a fantastic climb. The peak at 12410 is apparently unclimbed.

The glacier flight will cost $660 per person. I don't know flight weight limits yet. I think it would be good to get our reservation in soon. Paul said that he would prefer a check, and that payment must be made in full to reserve a spot.

-Marcus

Ruedi Homberger Pictures arrived - 1/28
Expedition Homepage Created - 1/30

THE IDEA
The idea for this expedition started in October 2000 with the possibility of going "somewhere" in Alaska. What has evolved is the formation of the following plans. The point of the expedition is an self-introduction to climbing in Alaska by ascending unclimbed mountains and routes in the Mt. Bear region of the St. Ellias Mountain.

WHEN
As it is, the tentative schedule is:

•  February 15-29 - Decide who is going and get airplane tickets to Anchorage. Perhaps nail Paul Claus down on when we plan to fly in.
•  March-June - Plan for more route, reseach more mountains, meetings, food, etc...
•  June 9 - 11 - Leave for Anchorage, Ultima Thule Lodge, Barnard Glacier
•  July 8 - Return to Seattle

WHERE
The Barnard Glacier is located about 50 miles East of the city of McCarthy, and drains into the mighty Chitna River. The "right" fork of this glacier leads into a basin to the S of 14,841 foot Mt. Bear. There are some unclimbed peaks in this basin, as well as some ascended and named peaks.

• Mt. Bear (14,841) - Full South Ridge route, summiting peak 12,775 (unclimbed) and continuing up the South Rib of Bear.
• Peak 12,410 - West Ridge
• Wetterhorn - North Face "Diamond"
• Gunner Nazaland - NE Ridge

During the later half of the Expedition we would like to fly base camp to another side valley and do some easy ski/climb up first ascents. These would not be very technical routes, but asthedic ridges on beautiful virgin mountains!

PICTURES
Here are some of the pictures we have found of the area.

The Barnard Glacier's "right" fork. That is Gunnar Nazaland in the backround. The Full Soth Ridge route on Bear begins on the dark ridge at center right. (from AAJ 1997)

Gunnar Naslund and the Wetterhorn from the West. You can see the NE ridge of GN clearly here. yikes! (Photo by Ruedi Homberger)

Close up of the above picture showing a possible route up the "Diamond" on the wetterhorn's North Face.

The barnard glacier with gunnar naslund and perhaps the wetter horn at right.