Projects - What keeps us scheming!

Here is what I'm scheming about doing in the future. The routes you'll find here are not terribly surprising for a Washington alpinist, but that's because this is not a secret projects page. Those little first ascent beauties are kept quiet! These are routes that I've wanted to do or ones that I need to work my way up to. Enjoy and get excited!

The full North Ridge of Stuart (IV 5.9)


The gendarge high on the route that contains most of the 5.9 climbing

What could be better than 3000+ feet of technical rock climbing on solid granite in a beautiful apline setting. Len are you out there??

Update: August 2001 Ended up doing the upper ridge


Northeast Buttress of Slesse (IV 5.9)

The strikingly beautiful North side of Slesse in the Chiliwack area of BC hold one of the cascades best rock climbs. Again, looooong technical ridge on super solid granite. Awesome. I think I still need more rock practice before hopping on this one without a ropegun. If I can stay await from aid climbing enough this spring I should be up to it this year! Strategy here is to carry over the mountain going extremely light: one pack, no sleeping bags, no ten essentials (snicker), no nothin'!


Drury Falls (Grade III WI4-5)

That me approaching Drury on a late season attempt in 2001. We weren't really good enough to lead the last two pitches but we tried to get as far as we could. Hopefully next year I'll be up to leading the top two pitches of hard grade 4 ice. The route offers about 5-6 pitches of excellent ice ranging from WI3 to WI4+ on the last pitch. If we're fast, we can do this in a day. Key to that is getting an early start, climbing first in line, and bringing a headlamp to find the rap anchors!


Mt Baker - The Coleman Headwall

This one has been an idea for quite a while now. The route ascents the direct North face of Mt. Baker for ~2,500 ft.via steep snowfields and broken icefalls/icecliffs. The circuitus route up the face is comitting but quite asthedic and well worth the effort. Thinking about making a one day attempt, starting at night from the cars and hitting the wall at first light. No reason to camp 2 hours in!


Space Shot (IV 5.6 C2) - Big wall in Zion

A good starter wall for me. I'm also interested in doing the other walls in zion such as the Moonlight Buttress, Prodigial Sun, and Lunar Extasy. Gotta get psyched and practice all that big wall technique! Marcus is probably my partner for this one, if he ever finds his way back from the East coast. I'm thinking about starting late and biving mid-route for the experience. The modest free and aid grade could easily give way to a one day ascent by us (7 pitches), but we've got to haul the pig, drink Old E and bring back fun stories about poop tubes!